Marine Aquarium (Basics)
Structure of a Marine System
A marine system consists of three units:
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Display – the main viewing aquarium.
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Stand – which supports the Display.
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SUMP – the technical part of the system located under the Stand.
Requirements for the Stand
Strength and Construction
● The stand should be sturdy – a fully wooden construction with support at the top (not just attached, to prevent collapse).
● If using a metal frame, the metal should be positioned on its edge (rectangular tubing on its "edge," not flat).
● Sometimes extra reinforcement ribs (diagonal) are installed at the back, but not at the front.
SUMP Placement
● The lengthwise crossbar in the middle of the stand often interferes with SUMP installation.
● The SUMP is usually long, so it's easier to slide it under the stand from the side, through a side door or removable panel.
● If possible, avoid placing a crossbar in the middle as it will interfere with servicing equipment installed in the SUMP.
Height and Convenience
● It's better to make the stand taller (from 80 cm) for easier maintenance. ● A taller cabinet makes it easier to organize access to wires and outlets. ● Consider whether the Skimmer can fit, accounting for the SUMP's height. ● Many people encounter problems when the Skimmer can't be removed from the SUMP for cleaning due to insufficient clearance between the top of the SUMP and the stand ceiling.
Stand Walls
● Walls should be made of wood or plastic and thick enough to attach equipment.
● Thin walls will result in screws protruding through.
● The stand will contain lots of equipment, outlets, power strips, and cords (always more than initially anticipated).
Stand Ceiling
● It's important to ensure a thick stand ceiling so screws can be inserted without affecting the aquarium bottom.
● Better to use thick particleboard so medium screws don't penetrate all the way through.
Requirements for the Display (aquarium)
Size and Proportions
● The height of the aquarium should be approximately equal to its width.
● The length can be any size.
● This proportion is necessary for normal gas exchange.
● If the height is significantly greater than the width (e.g., height 60 cm, width 25 cm), you'll get a "swamp" instead of a Marine Reef, with poor degassing.
● With incorrect proportions, ammonia accumulates in the lower layers, requiring very strong current for ventilation.
Aquarium Shape
● A standard, flat, rectangular aquarium is recommended.
● Corner aquariums are not recommended.
● Avoid "drop-offs" (structures with depth variations) – such zones degas poorly and create "dead zones" with problematic water flow.
Reinforcement Ribs
● Longitudinal reinforcement ribs are recommended.
● They reduce the likelihood of fish jumping out (fish often jump along the front or back glass).
● With standard reinforcement ribs, the chances of fish jumping out are minimal.
● To save on glass thickness in larger volumes, you can cover the entire perimeter of the Display with reinforcement ribs, including transverse ones.
Overflow System and Chamber
Chamber
● The chamber is a necessary part of the display for organizing water overflow from the Display to the SUMP.
● I don't recommend using external drain pipes as they create constant water gurgling and have limited flow capacity.
● The total length of the overflow chamber should be at least 40 cm for aquariums of 400 liters or more.
● If the overflow chamber is smaller, this must be considered when choosing the power of the return pump, otherwise excessive filling of the Display with water is possible.
Overflow Comb
● The comb should not be too fine, as the teeth impede water flow.
● When you remove the comb, excess water immediately flows from the display to the SUMP.
● The spaces between the overflow comb teeth should be slightly larger than the thickness of the teeth themselves.
● With too dense a comb, the water level in the Display can rise 3 cm above normal, increasing the risk of water overflowing through the top of the Display onto the floor.
Water Drainage
Main and Emergency Pipes
● The drain should consist of at least two pipes: main and emergency.
● For large systems: 2 main and 1 emergency pipe.
● The emergency pipe is a mandatory safety element.
● If the main pipe becomes clogged or during power fluctuations, the emergency pipe prevents overflow.
Emergency Pipe Characteristics
● The emergency pipe should not have valves.
● It should be ultra-reliable.
● Capable of draining the entire volume that the main pipe drains.
● Preferably the same diameter as the main drain pipe.
Drainage Adjustment
● Systems are adjusted with a valve on the main drain pipe.
● By adjusting the valve, you can control the bubbling in the degassing system.
● If the main pipe becomes clogged, the emergency pipe prevents display overflow.
Return System
Difference from Drainage System
● Not to be confused with the drainage system – these are different systems.
● The return system returns water from the sump to the display.
Return Pump
● Power is calculated as 10 times the display volume (for a 1000 L aquarium, a 10,000 L/h pump is needed).
● Actual performance will be less due to water lift, turns, and resistance.
● At a height of 1.5 meters, the pump may deliver significantly less than its rated capacity.
Return Pipes
● The pipe diameter should match the pump outlet diameter without adapters.
● Thin pipes reduce performance by 10-20%.
● Minimize bends and 90° angles.
● Use the expanding rings that come with pumps for maximum performance.
SUMP Structure
Degassing System
● The first compartment where water from the display enters.
● Gases are vented here.
● Degassing intensity is regulated by the valve on the drain pipe.
● If water bubbles with air – degassing is stronger; if it just mixes – degassing is weaker.
Mechanical Filtration
● The second compartment after degassing.
● Filter bags or fleece filters are used.
● Necessary when detritus begins to accumulate in the system.
● Synthetic filter bags with a large diameter (18 cm throat) are recommended.
● Thin filter socks are ineffective – they clog too quickly.
Biofilter
● The next compartment after mechanical filtration.
● Contains biological filtering substrate (Bioballs, Bio-ceramics, or Live Rock fragments); this compartment should be completely filled.
● Important to place the biofilter before the Skimmer so bacteria receive enough nutrition.
Skimmer Compartment
● The Skimmer removes excess protein and small particles.
● The Skimmer should have reserve capacity.
● You can adjust the Skimmer power, but remember that reducing pump power by 30% may reduce air supply by about 50%.
Return Compartment
● The last compartment where the return pump is located.
● The auto top-off sensor is installed here.
● Should be large enough (minimum 8-10 L for a 300-400 L system).
● A small compartment will lead to water level instability and constant auto top-off activations.
Principles of SUMP Organization
Water Flow Direction
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Water from the Skimmer compartment should exit through the bottom: ○ This increases the efficiency of the Skimmer. ○ Protein-rich water slightly floats up and is retained longer in the compartment. ○ Important during increased system load (overfeeding, etc.).
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Water to the return pump should flow through the top: ○ Allows correct installation of the water level sensor. ○ Ensures stable operation of the auto top-off. ○ The sensor better responds to level changes.
Equipment
Auto Top-Off
● Essential for maintaining stable salinity.
● Adds RO water to replace evaporated water.
● The sensor is installed in the return pump compartment.
● Salinity instability severely harms corals.
Protein Skimmer
● Should have reserve capacity.
● Most skimmers are adjustable.
● Choose only proven models (based on experienced reefers' reviews).
● Cheap models often work inefficiently.
Macro and Microelement Supply System
Two main options:
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Calcium reactor: ○ Uses "coral rubble" (processed coral skeletons, etc.). ○ Enriches water with macro and microelements. ○ Requires a CO2 cylinder and pH controller. Oxidation and dissolution of the rubble occurs through carbon dioxide supply. ○ Microelements need to be dosed additionally.
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Balling system: ○ Three elements (A, B, C). ○ Automatically doses necessary elements. ○ Reliable dosers recommended (Apex, GHL). ○ Microelements need to be dosed additionally.
Temperature Control
● Depending on climate: chiller and/or heater.
● Optimal temperature: 23-25°C.
● The heater should be of good quality, not capable of heating water above 28°C.
● Chillers typically don't cool below 21-23°C.
Chiller Operation Organization
● Water intake for the chiller is best done after mechanical filtration.
● Return of cooled water – to the return pump compartment or Skimmer.
● With a large temperature difference between display and sump (3°C or more), it's better to direct the return to the Skimmer compartment.
Water Preparation
Reverse Osmosis System for Water Purification
● Mandatory for marine aquariums.
● The output TDS value (total mineralization) should not exceed 1, preferably 0.
● System structure:
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Mechanical filtration (5 micron filter).
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Two carbon cartridges (to protect the membrane from chlorine).
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Reverse osmosis membrane.
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Two resins (deionizing and anti-silicate).
Maintenance Recommendations
● When using loose carbon, rinse before starting.
● Monitor the condition of resins – they change color as they become depleted.
● Use a dual TDS meter: one after the membrane, another after the resins.
● Change the resin when the output TDS reaches 1.
Marine Salt
Salt Selection
● Use only quality salt for marine aquariums.
● For system startup: basic salt (e.g., Tropic Marin Pro Reef).
● Don't use enriched salts (Reef Crystal) for new systems.
● Different salts have different purposes (for fresh systems, for established systems, etc.).
Types of Salt
● Basic salt "Pro Reef" – for most systems.
● Symbiotic – salt for starting systems.
● Bioactive – salt for older systems (with added carbon to reduce nitrates and phosphates).
Pipes and Fittings
● Use only PVC pipes for marine water.
● Marine water leaches substances from unsuitable plastics.
● Clean pipes of markings and inscriptions before use (acetone can be used).
● For systems you plan to disassemble, use fittings with collet clamps rather than gluing pipes.
● Glued pipes won't allow removal of the display without cutting the pipes.
Conclusion
All the described components and principles are fundamental for creating a healthy and stable marine aquarium system. Understanding these basics will help avoid many problems when setting up and maintaining a marine aquarium.